Retinol uglies
Bruce shares, "the retinol uglies are essentially the skin’s reaction to being pushed into a faster renewal cycle. Retinol stimulates increased cell turnover and collagen production, but during those early weeks the skin barrier can struggle to keep up, leading to dryness, redness, purging and sensitivity." He notes that, "it can feel alarming, but these symptoms are short-lived for most people and a sign that the ingredient is doing exactly what it should.”
Bruce describes it as a “training period” for the skin, where "discomfort is temporary but the long-term payoff (smoother texture, improved tone and reduced fine lines) is far more meaningful.”
For those who don’t want to abandon their retinol, Bruce recommends "a slower and more strategic approach rather than stopping altogether. Begin with low concentrations, applying retinol to completely dry skin, and buffer with a nourishing moisturiser to temper irritation.” He also suggests limiting use to "once or twice a week before gradually increasing frequency. This allows the skin barrier to adapt at its own pace. I always recommend doing a patch test on any new skincare product. Don’t rush, give your skin a chance to adjust.”
Crucially, Bruce reassures that "the retinol uglies are not a compulsory rite of passage. With careful introduction and supportive skincare, many people can avoid reactive skin altogether. For those who do experience it, it’s almost always worth seeing through, as long as irritation remains mild and manageable, because once the uglies subside, the transformational results tend to follow.”
“A good way to avoid retinol problems is to use the ‘Sandwich Method’:
Apply a light fragrance-free moisturiser (SOS H20 Day Cream SPF 30 is perfect).
Apply a small pea-sized amount of your selected retinol.
Apply another thin layer of moisturiser.
This method buffers the retinol and reduces irritation whilst still allowing it to be effective. Without fail, always use a sunscreen (SOS SPF 50 Sun Cream is ideal).”